If you own a 2012–2021 Tesla Model S and notice its low-tone horn
has gone weak, started buzzing, or won’t trigger when you use the
remote to find your car—this CFN low-tone horn is the fix you need.
It’s a CFN branded part (not Tesla OEM) built to match how your
Model S’s original low-tone horn works, fits, and connects, so you
get back that deep, reliable warning sound without the hassle of
mismatched parts.
This horn hits the 150–500Hz low-frequency range the 2012–2021
Model S was designed for—same as the factory part. That means it’s
loud enough (118dB) to cut through traffic noise on busy streets or
highways, making sure pedestrians and other drivers hear you. Pair
it with a high-tone horn (sold separately), and it sounds just like
your Model S did when it was new, meeting national safety standards
for car horns.
It also plays nice with your Model S’s remote control (RC)
function. Unlike cheap universal horns that lag or don’t work with
Tesla’s system, this one responds in 0.3 seconds when you hit
“honk” on your phone app or key fob. No more standing in a parking
lot clicking repeatedly—your Model S will beep right away to help
you find it.
Built for the long haul, too. The sealed ABS case keeps out rain,
car wash spray, and engine dust (IP54 rating), so it won’t rust or
short out. It handles extreme temps, too—from -30°C winters (no
more silent cold mornings) to 85°C summer engine bays (no distorted
buzz). Plus, there’s a rubber pad inside to soak up vibrations from
potholes or speed bumps, so it lasts 5+ years with regular use.
It only fits 2012–2021 Model S (all variants like 85, P100D)—don’t
try it on 2022+ Model S or other Teslas (the ports and mounts are
different). Installing it is straightforward: it slots into the
original front bumper bracket, and the 2-pin plug clicks right into
your car’s wiring. We suggest a pro does it (you need to remove the
bumper’s lower shield), and a quick self-test afterward makes sure
there’s no “horn fault” alert.
Great for replacing horns that’ve lost their low end, buzz, or fail
the remote test—just make sure it’s not a fuse or wire issue first.
